This is a tool I made for hammering fullers into a blade. The U shaped spring was made from a 2.5 x 0.29 bar of 5160H, with two 1 inch bars of D2 that after I polished and tapered the ends, welded onto the ends of the spring. There is a square piece welded onto the bottom to fit into the anvil’s hardie hole to keep it from moving around when in use, and a 0.25 inch thick bottom plate of mild steel to support the lower section. Now I can place the tool on the anvil, holding the blade between the round pieces, hitting it with a hammer to get the fullers shape started.
Fire proof measuring
I had burned up quite a few tape measures from getting to close to the hot metal before I decided to get a rail road track, cleaned up the ends, then cut a ruler along the side. Now I can straighten a bar, as well as have a measurement of what I am doing in the forge. I tac welded it onto the cross bar to keep it from falling off and hitting my feet.
Some times I want a bar of a thickness that isn’t a standard size, and drawing out a billet with a hammer takes a very long time. A few years ago I saw an article on the Mc Donald Rolling Mill and thought it would speed things up a bit. In the summer of 2006 I bought the plans, and built one of my own. I hired out a few operations, because I do not have the equipment for making bearings or the main rollers.
I have finally started building my gas forge. This will have 4, one inch diameter burners. Designed after the T-Rex style venturi burner. I started with a 30 inch long by 16 steel pipe. Lined with 3 inches of inswool insulation, covered with 3/8 inch of refractory cement, top coated with ITC-100. This will have a flat floor. Leaving about a 9 inch diameter internal area. View is from the mouth of the gas forge. Clearly visible are the brackets for the dual doors, so I can close up for the night to keep out small animals, or to anneal steel. The rear has a sliding rear wall so I can use this with only the front 1 or 2 burners if I wish. giving me a 30 to 14 inch long adjustable forge.
This is great for welding up cable for cable damascus. It gives 3 impact points rather than the 2 of a hammer and flat anvil. Also a simple swage block for folding and making clean 90 degree bends. The anvil is normaly used to make bends, but this allows a cleaner, square outside to the bend than the edge of an anvil gives. I don’t use it this way very often.