Frequently Asked Questíons

Fenris Forge: Blades & Blacksmithing

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If you have questions, feel free to email us:

Are these real blades I can cut with, or only for show?
While these blades are ready to show, they are real.   Knives are typically finished to around RHC 56-62, depending upon design; and swords to a range of RHC 50-54, they are more than ready to be used as intended, as blades.   Rumors of pattern welded blades being anything less are based on poor construction techniques by inferior makers.

How is the price calculated?
Price is based on the cost of the steels used, pattern complexity (more complex patterns take longer to make) woods used, guard materials, scabbards, and various other details.   Gems, plating and inlays are usually hired out, so that is an added cost as well.

Why don't you have more listed in your 'For Sale' sections?
Most of our work is custom ordered by our clients.   We wait for a client to tell us what they want, and then we make it that way.   There are too many variations in steels, and patterns for me to keep everything laying around.   Since steel can rust if not cared for, it would increase the cost and labor to keep them cleaned and rust free until purchased.

Others sell stainless steel blades, why don't you?
Most stainless steels make a for shiny care-free blade shaped object.   I feel the companies that sell inexpensive stainless blades, are not heat treating them.   They can't be at those prices.   This form of stainless will not hold an edge.   I do not think stainless is the best choice for a blade, unless its a diving knife, where non stainless would fail due to other factors.   Then I have to hire out the heat treat to get stainless steels in the condition to make them usable as blades.   I am not set up for an 8 to 10 hour soak time needed at over 1700F, for some of the stainless steels.   It is very expensive to run a furnace that long at those temperatures.   Since there are many non stainless steels that make excellent blades, I do not feel its is cost effective or practical to use it for blades.

How long will it take to get my blade?
If you are buying a blade from our 'For Sale' pages, they are sent out as soon as payment is received.   You should have your blade within a week or two, depending on the USPS.   If you are placing a custom order, time will depend on what is being done.   Typically I will quote from between 4 to 10 months to get a blade made and shipped, depending on what else I have scheduled at the time your order is placed.

Why does it take so long to get a blade after I order?
All my blades are hand made.   My day job as an IBEW Electrician can sometimes keep me away from the forge.   I make blades on weekends, and in between assignments from my Union hall.   Many times I will get a blade done sooner, but I would rather play it safe in quoting time, as I hate telling a person it will take longer than expected.   Also, most people are very happy to get a blade sooner than expected, but no one is happy to get it late.

Who decides what materials will be used to make my blade?
We both do!   We will talk about your needs, and I will make suggestions based on what you tell me, but its your blade.   If I accept the project, it will be done your way.   We will discuss most every aspect of your blade together, so you can make an informed decision.

Can I order a partially finished billet, or blade to finish it myself?
Yes, of course.   I will take a billet or a blade to any stage you wish, and offer tips to help you finished it.   I will not warranty your heating or hammering on my damascus, as it can be ruined by the wrong temperatures.   I will warranty the billet is free from defect for stock removal projects, and if a flaw is discovered I will replace the billet, and I will pay for the return of the bad billet, so I can examine it to see what went wrong.

Will you build my design like the one I saw in my video game?
In most cases NO.   Video games are made to play on a game console, not for the real world.   Most of those type blades would be very heavy, and not functional in a real world.   Many real blades have a lot of things in common, because over the past few thousands of years what has worked has been copied by bladesmiths, and what did not work was dropped.   In short, some ideas that at first seemed to be good ideas, have already been tried, and failed in practice.   Having stated that clearly, I am always open to looking at ideas, but as for pure fantasy blades, I try to keep with historically proven designs.

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